While trail racing and running are both seen as relatively modern concepts, there’s nothing I enjoy more than covering routes embedded with a much deeper history. In North America, it’s easy to forget that many recreational trails have historical significance as trading and travel routes between settlements. A few years ago, I had the pleasure of running the 19-mile Brigade Trail race near Hope, British Columbia, which runs along part of the resurrected Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) Heritage Trail from Tulameen to Hope. The full 50-mile route is a great way to step back into a piece of western Canada’s history and immerse yourself in the majestic forests and alpine vistas while spotting some wildlife along the way.
For centuries this route was used by local First Nations for hunting, fishing and gathering. From 1849 to 1860, the HBC Heritage Trail was used as an essential route through the Cascade Mountains for fur traders as well as for resupplying HBC forts in the interior and north of British Columbia. Brigades (groups of up to 30 men and several hundred horses) would travel along this route from the Pacific coast on a regular basis, but with close to 4,000 meters (13,000 feet) of elevation gain and loss this was a challenging route for both men and horses alike. After 1860, a safer route was found, and the trail fell into disrepair. It was not until the 1960s and 1970s that local volunteers began the process of locating the old trail which had not been in use for over 100 years. The route was mapped and cleared, but it was not until 2016 that it officially reopened with the goal of bringing visitors to the area to hike and stay at one of the remote campsites along the trail.
Apart from its history, one of the main appeals of the HBC Heritage Trail are the varied landscapes and challenges of steep climbs and rough trails in a remote setting. The trail has a mix of coastal forest, mountains and dry interior terrain. And if you’re lucky, you might spot pikas, marmots or black bears along the way. Although the trail is well established, don’t be surprised if you have to navigate fallen trees, muddy sections and overgrown foliage – every kilometer is earned on the HBC Heritage Trail.
Photo: Jenny Quilty
As a trail runner, it is possible the complete the entire HBC Heritage Trail in one day, but the stout FKTs, 9 hours, 12 minutes for men and 11 hours, 35 minutes for women, do show that this is a serious undertaking. It’s worth considering a multi-day fastpack to allow for a more relaxed pace to take in the views. There are ten campsites on the trail, and no fees or reservations are required. The best time of year to enjoy the trail is from July to September – you’ll have to ford a river to get to the trailhead at Tulameen which can be tricky earlier in the season, and there are additional river crossings along the trail. All can be easily crossed in mid-summer, and there is still plenty of water along the way to be filtered for drinking.
Overall, the HBC Heritage Trail is very well marked and even includes some interpretative panels about the history, flora and fauna of the area. There are some intersections with logging roads, but with a sharp eye you can navigate the trail with relative ease. The most common way to complete the route is from Tulameen to Hope, as this has slightly more descent (12,795 feet) than ascent (10,500 feet) and allows you to end your run or fastpack in the small town of Hope (approximately a 2-hour drive from Vancouver). The trailhead at Tulameen is remote, and it’s a 160k drive between the two. While it’s possible to run just part of the trail, this would require a pick-up/drop-off on a remote logging road (currently no shuttles service the HBC Heritage Trail). Note: cell service is limited in the area.
If the HBC Heritage Trail appeals, stay tuned to Mountain Madness Trail Running who may be hosting a 50-mile and 19-mile race again in September 2025.
For up-to-date information on the trail, contact Hope Mountain Centre.