Every week I get to research and write about North American races in UltraRunning Magazine’s “What’s Up in Ultra” column. There are dozens of amazing events on my bucket list that are closer to home, but when the opportunity arose to travel to Vietnam and run the Vietnam Ultramarathon (VUM) 55k in Mai Chau, a rural farming district of the Hòa Bình province 3 hours outside of Hanoi, I couldn’t pass it up.
The late Anthony Bourdain often spoke of his love for Vietnam, and it only took a few hours of being in the country to see why. Vietnam is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been. The smells, tastes and people are unique and complex, but also simple and welcoming. At first, Hanoi can be a lot to take in, especially if you’re used to cities with sidewalks, crosswalks and dedicated running paths. But crossing the street—a great dance between motorbikes, scooters and buses—is part of the charm. There is something strangely calming about it all.
Rice fields above Mai Chau.
After a post-flight shakeout run around Hoàn Kiếm Lake in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and some amazing pho and Bia Hanoi on a tiny stool at a street joint I can’t pronounce the name of, my wife and I set off for the rice fields of Mai Chau. I did not know what to expect from the small rural village and its surrounding trails, but as the shops of Hanoi gave way to towering limestone cliffs, high-rise apartments to traditional stilt houses with thatched roofs and paved streets turned to dirt paths, I knew I was in for a real treat and a real challenge.
To say the VUM pre-race ceremony was an elaborate production would be an understatement. It involved traditional dances, a flag ceremony, and two tables of local government officials. It was unique to any race I had ever run, and it only added to the excitement. Hosted by Topas Travel, VUM welcomed over 1,200 runners from 44 countries who were entered in the five events which included a 5k, 15k, 25k and 75k in addition to the 55k race I was about to run.
VUM opening flag ceremony.
The following morning, the 75k runners set out from the finish line to complete a loop course, while 55k participants were shuttled up the mountain to run a point-to-point route back to Mai Chau. After a 30-minute bus ride, we were dropped along the side of the road and began our 1k walk to the start. My sense of the unknown was thicker than the fog and I couldn’t help but laugh when an unattended ox strolled down the path, paying no attention to the 232 runners making their way to the staging area.
The Vietnam Ultramarathon 55k can essentially be broken down into two halves. The first half is in the mountains and engulfed in the clouds, with extremely steep grades, sharp and slick rocks, sketchy bamboo ladders crossing over barbed wire fences, lush green scenery and epic views. The second half takes you through remote villages, endless rice fields and a combination of double-track, single-track and creative “trails” that require you to balance on narrow irrigation canals for long stretches at a time.
Both sections challenged me mentally and physically. Up high, I slowly crawled down the rocky descents to avoid an ankle roll or tumble that would cut my race short. Down low, I methodically walked the sections by the rice fields fearing a misstep would leave me knee-deep in the mud. I had traveled a long way to get there, and I wanted to reach the finish line in one piece.
Children along the VUM 55k course.
One of my favorite things about running ultramarathons is the people I get to meet. While we all come from different places and backgrounds, during the race, we all share similar experiences. There’s an unspoken bond between runners that is unique to our sport. During the VUM 55k, I met runners from all around the world. Language barriers often limited communication to a thumbs up or a smile, but the English-speaking conversations I had were lasting and meaningful, including briefly learning about the Blue Dragon Children’s Foundation and their affiliation with the race.
Blue Dragon, as I later discovered, helps rescue Vietnamese children from sex trafficking, homelessness and extreme poverty and works to provide them with safe environments in which they can heal and thrive. Over 40 kids and staff participated in the various race distances as runners and volunteers, with many of the children running the 5k.
As Mr. Do Duy Vi, co-managing director of Blue Dragon wrote (taken from the VUM Facebook Page and translated to English): “This race wasn’t just a race. It’s also a life-changing event for the kids. Most of you have lived on the streets or come from poor families. VUM offers students opportunities to learn, connect and build confidence – things that many students have never had before.”
One of the highlights of the race, and something I will never forget, was running through the villages and seeing the children out waving and giving high fives to the runners. Their joy was uplifting and provided a jolt of energy far more powerful than the HEED or Coke at the amazing aid stations along the course. The experience made me grateful for organizations like Blue Dragon and I hope they can continue doing their amazing work. You can learn more at bluedragon.org.
Traditional Thai folk dance.
After finishing the race, my wife and I stayed at a local Mai Chau homestay just down the road from the finish line. There, while enjoying a delicious homecooked meal of fried fish and Chả Giò (Vietnamese egg rolls), were welcomed in by a large family gathered for celebration. That night I was offered (and gladly accepted) shots of homemade Vietnamese moonshine poured from water bottles, sipped another mystery booze (Rượu cần) through giant bamboo straws, and enjoyed a traditional White Thai folk ceremony complete with a bamboo “clapping sticks” dance.
As a bonfire was lit, and the adrenaline of the day finally wore off, my wife and I decided to call it a night. Tired, sore and buzzed, we headed to bed. From start to finish, it was one of the coolest races and travel days of my life.